Friday, March 19, 2010

CLUB MEETING Mar 14

The topic for this month was Forest style bonsai (YOSE-UYE), which replicates the feel of a forest in miniature. The forest should contain an odd number of variable sized trees. Forests are planted in a shallow pot with the trees spaced more to the back and to one side of the pot. Check out John Naka's Bonsai Techniques I (pages 215-226)
Club members brought in the three forests below.









Keith brought in this wonderful juniper forest. The rocks and grass are optional elements. Some like to include ceramic figures in their forest, but the bonsai purist do not care for these items.













What magnificent color in John's maple forest. John, 4 trees? Did you lose a tree or is there a small tree hidden in this photo?











This is my Ginko forest. These trees appear to be in a strait line but they are not. The pot is much to deep and the spacing of the trees is not very good. The tree spacing will be correct when I transplant.













Carmen worked on her cascade juniper. I like the movement in this tree.















Here Kanemi is helping restyle Ron's cascade juniper.













This is one of Jeff's collected California Juniper. He calls this a "fish bone style".















George has helped Bob with his cypress. They have selected a new apex and have wired it up vertically. Can you find it? It is coming off the left side of the tree by George's elbow.













This is a terrific white pine bonsai. White pines are grown further north and do not do well in this area. The tree is already showing discoloration in the needles. Kanemi said they need more moisture. Maybe keeping a pan of water under it, or spritzing it often will help.

Tuesday, January 19, 2010

CLUB MEETING Jan 10

Our club selects topics to be discussed, and demonstrated for some the meetings. The topic for January was the propagation of plants using grafting techniques. George brought in some 1 gal Stone Pines, and Black Pines which served as root bases for the graftings. These plants were selected for their quick strong growth.
We had the following three grafting shoots to select from: Cork Pine, Yatsabusa Pine, and Banshoho Pine. The Cork Pine is noted for it's rough cork like bark. The other two pines are known for their short compressed needle bundles.


George has selected this Black Pine for his demonstration.


Here he makes the first cut on the shoot. The grafting knife is very sharp and beveled on one side only. The cut is made in one downward motion at about 15 to 20 degrees. The cut surface is about three times longer than the width of the stem.


A second cut is made from the other side of the shoot at the bottom. This gives a chisel shape to the bottom of the shoot. Note the size of the piece removed on the tip of the knife.


George now prepares the base stock by making a diagonal cut very low on the base plant. Again cutting in one motion. It is important or make these cuts as clean as possible.


The shoot is inserted into the slit in the base with the long cut side of the shoot against the tree (NOT the flap). This shoot must be aligned so the cambium layers of the shoot and the base tree are touching along one side. Notice the fit in this photo. If you looked at the other side there is a gap between the tree and the flap, because the shoot is much smaller than the tree.


The shoot will be held in place with a rubber band which keeps a gentle pressure on the wound. Notice George is holding a small tail of rubber band in the left hand as he winds the rubber around the tree. He uses this tail to tie off the rubber band when the wound is fully covered.

Grafting is complete. GOOD JOB GEORGE!


The plant is placed back in the container and watered very well. Then covered with a 1 gal Ziploc bag which is held in place with a rubber band. The plant is placed in the shade, and is self contained. No watering is required. Water will evaporate, condense on the plastic bag, and return to the soil.
By April you can remove the plastic bag but keep the plant in the shade and now water as required.
By October you should see the shoot sprouting new candles, and can now remove the top of the base plant. The plant can now be placed on your grow bench.

I have two of these grafted plants, a Cork Pine George did for me, and a Banshoho Pine I did.
I will post the results of both trees in April, and October.

Saturday, January 9, 2010

CLUB MEETING Dec 13

December we have our traditional Year End Party.
Activities include the following:
Critique of bonsais with restyling recommendations, by Kanemi;
Santa Maria Style Barbecue, Master Chef Sonny;
And our gift raffle, conducted by George.